Wine is very important in France and, from what I have witnessed, a part of Paris social life. New Yorkers share a bottle of wine or have a glass together, or even a cocktail, but there is something a bit more about sharing wine in Paris.
It is first of all, much more prevalent. In NYC, I will sometimes have one glass of wine. If two others at the table want wine, we may discuss getting a bottle. Rarely have I gone through more than a bottle. In Paris, if two people want wine, it is almost automatic that you get a bottle. If more than two people are at the table, there is a strong likelihood you will be getting more than one bottle. It is less of a special occasion in Paris. Not that it is not special, but it is more part of the meal than something "special." Never ordinary.
When the wine is poured, there is a special moment where we all toast. This is like in NYC, but not. In NYC, when you are all served, we hold up the glasses and everyone moves them to the center, making sure you clink every other glass. The important thing is the touching of the glasses.
In Paris, there is a very nice custom of toasting. "Cin!" Not the Italian "Cin, cin" but only one. At this point the toasting is done by couples. You touch glasses with every other person, BUT you must make eye contact. If not, you are politely but sternly chastised. Also, you cannot "cross," meaning if North and South are toasting, East and West cannot go over or under. This is considered very bad luck. I am unsure what happens if you do it. I have done it (not knowing) and was, again, chastised. Sweetly and jokingly, but chastised nonetheless.
I find it sweet that quite often when you look the person in the eye, you get an attitude of, "Oh, isn't this quaint," or "Isn't this silly." But don't mistake it; this is very Important and Serious. It really does set a lovely mood for the aperitif (cocktail hour) or the meal. At this point, I truly look forward to doing it every time and quite often I start it.
I was out with Helmut and some clients from London. When it came time for the toast, the Londoners did the normal touch glasses toast and crossed over each other to do it. The French people just let it happen. I asked Helmut about this later and he said that when others don't know, they just let the moment slip by.
I wonder how many other moments I am missing for this same reason?
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